1989 Château Palmer

Fleshy, stunningly fragrant, tobacco and crushed roses, very much a signature of older Palmer, so much finesse and gentle concentration, waves of delicate peonies, raspberries, cold ash, saffron, keeps coming back at you in waves of retro-olfaction, in its drinking window but with plenty of time ahead of it. Harvest 6 to 23 September. Served blind.

Wafting from the glass with captivating aromas of dark berries, violets, sweet soil tones and black truffle, the 1989 Palmer is medium to full-bodied, rich and velvety, with a suave, seamless profile, terrific depth at the core and a long, sapid, perfumed finish. At its best, this is one of the vintage's finest wines.

The 1989 Palmer has vied with the 1983 as the highlight of the decade, so it is fascinating to revisit it at 30 years old. It has a wonderful bouquet of degraded red berry fruit, singed leather and hints of game and mint, beautifully defined and still so fresh, yet undeniably old-school in style. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and still brimming with vigor, delivering a fine bead of acidity and a touch of cracked black pepper. A very detailed, engaging finish urges you back for another sip. A brilliant Palmer, and judging from this showing, it has another two decades of pleasure to give. Tasted from an ex-cellar bottle at the château .