2009 BOND Pluribus

Readers searching for a Pluribus to drink now will find much to admire in the 2009. Beautifully resonant on the palate, the 2009 possesses striking depth and nuance. Time in the glass seems to bring out the wine's natural richness and generous, inviting texture.

Saturated medium ruby. Captivating perfumed lift to the aromas of blackberry pastille, licorice, herbs and minerals. At once densely packed and wonderfully light on its feet, with its glossy dark berry, licorice and violet flavors displaying terrific complexity, definition and energy. Yet another great example of the classy wines that were possible in 2009. Wonderfully firm, structured wine with serious tannins that saturate the mouth without leaving any impression of dryness. A beauty. Some vintages of Pluribus remind me of Léoville-Las Cases, including this one.

Vines at 1,100-1,300 ft and the last to be harvested. Many of the lots were barrel fermented. Very very sweet cassis intensity. Over-concentrated and over-extracted. Impressive but no pleasure now. A hint of marmite on the finish. Tough. Alder Yarrow says it ages well, hence the plus plus, but this seems more of a trophy wine than something I would want to drink. Not GV . (JH)