2009 Château Brane-Cantenac

The 2009 Brane-Cantenac has a wonderful bouquet, the best since the 2005. With copious brambly red berry fruit, cedar and mint—yes, very similar to previous bottles—there is simply more energy and focus from the benevolent growing season. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and perfectly judged acidity, a little spicier than I recall with harmony and grip towards the finish. Time is just beginning to mellow the finish and shave the edges of this superb Brane-Cantenac that continues to dole out so much pleasure. Delicious! Tasted at the Brane-Cantenac vertical at the château in September 2025.

Exceptional weather, and this is showcasing all the charms of the vintage. Firm and vibrant dark ruby in colour, so much depth to the berry fruit, intact, juicy, laced with tobacco, cocoa bean, fragrant rose petal. A total standout, easy to love, one to track down, confirms its success in my recent 2009/2010 retrospective. Harvest September 22 to October 9, 48.4hm/h yield, 70% new French oak barrels, 3.72ph. Eric Boissenot consultant, Henri Lurton owner, Christophe Capdeville technical director.

Transparent crimson. Nose is much more evolved than most 2009s. Initially seductive but the wine could do with a bit more lift and energy. A stodgy finish with some astringency. (JR)