2003 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou

‘A rainy winter built up soil water reserves while a hot March led to early budbreak and flowering (2 weeks ahead). Temperatures continued to rise throughout the summer, leading to extreme heat in August. A good rainfall in July kept the vines evolving and re-invigorating late summer showers (from 16 August) brought cooler nights, and aided the final ripening phase. September saw a return to warm vs hot temperatures, and the fruit was harvested early, with ideal conditions in September.’ Harvest: 15 September – 25 September. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot. 18 months in new French oak. Bruno Borie added that they were going to start leaf thinning in June but held back when the saw how hot it was, and the danger of sunburn. Browning garnet. Mature undergrowth is prominent here. Dusty and black-olive aroma. Firm, thick tannins in the mouth even if they are now smoothed. A bit abrupt on the finish and not much freshness. A tannic block in the mouth without enough freshness for balance.  (JH)

Bruno Borie's first year back at his home estate, arriving on January 3 2003, ready for this unusually (at the time) hot vintage. As with many of the great St Julien and Pauillac 2003s right now, this has held up exceptionally well and is still delivering. The fruit character is ripe, with sweet spices, blackberry and raspberry puree, campfire crackle, dried roses, tobacco, black truffle. Not hiding the vintage, but infusing its exotic character with freshness and balance. Lightly placed tannins, softened and integrated. Barrel ageing up from 12 to 18 months from this point, and 100% new oak. Harvest September 15 to 25. Eric and Jacques Boissenot consultants.

The 2003 Ducru-Beaucaillou, picked 15-25 September and matured in 90% new oak, has a ripe and opulent bouquet with lavish black fruit, fresh fig, dates and a touch of liquorice, though here is no sense of over-maturity here. It is fresher than a lot of ‘03s that I have recently tasted. The palate is well balanced with supple, rounded tannins. There is a real candied essence to this Ducru-Beaucaillou, with quite a pronounced liquorice finish that you want to go back to. This is ageing well - one of the better wines of this infamous growing season. Tasted at the Ducru Beaucaillou vertical at the château.