1996 Château Léoville-Poyferré

The 1996 Léoville Poyferré is an inconsistent performer, and this ex-château magnum does nothing to allay my fears that it is a rare instance of now-retired proprietor Didier Cuvelier fumbling what on paper is a great Left Bank vintage. Given that the Cabernet Sauvignon had plenty of time to ripen after the September rains, it comes across a little disjointed and leafy on the nose, as if finding it impossible to settle into a groove. The palate is quite masculine and tannic, with just a little dryness coming though. An uncharacteristically “serious” Léoville-Poyferré that would benefit from more flesh and tension toward the finish. Could. Do. Better? Tasted at Giando’s restaurant in Hong Kong.

Deep crimson. Not much nose; still quite youthful. Big mouthful of round, supple fruit and some gunpowder undertow. Attractive balance and a quite meaty still. I don’t think this would disappoint any claret lover. (JR)

Inviting lifted perfumed nose with some cedar aromas coming through. Powdery, dry tannins cause some friction and the acidity is poking through a bit at the moment. I fear the acidity may outlast the fruit? (JH)