2010 Vieilles Vignes Single Block Reserve Xinomavro

The 2010 Xinomavro Reserve Vielles Vignes is from the Tortoise Nest sub-region of Amyndeon, from high-altitude (620-710 meters), very old vines (89 years). This wine was aged for 24 months in French oak and then held back in bottle for another year. It comes in at 13.5% alcohol. Despite all that oak treatment, the wine drinks surprisingly well, with freshness and a lively feel. Take the Hedgehog Xinomavro reviewed this issue, add a couple of layers of depth, maintain the beautiful balance and harmony, and this is what you get: refined, but mouth-coating Xinomavro with silky texture and not many jagged edges, relatively speaking, granting that it is unevolved. This is still a bit understated, but surprisingly persistent. It never seems obvious. It never gives up the ghost, either, including after a couple of hours of aeration on Day 2. Underneath, it shows some tannic pop and that earthiness I’ve come to adore in the grape. It remains elegant in mid-palate weight, but it fleshes out with 60-90 minutes of air, too. Surprisingly approachable now, it clearly demonstrates with aeration that is nowhere near peak. It should acquire complexity with more age. Drink now-2025. Note that all of the 2010s here are current releases, typical of Alpha’s normal scheduling. They should become available in the U.S. marketplace at or within a couple of months of, the time this article appears. Greece’s (always welcome) summer onslaught will be starting soon, too, and that includes Alpha. Their pinks and whites are already in the pipeline. Look for them in April’s issue. Importer: Diamond Importers, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 549-6211

Horribly heavy bottle. 90-year-old bushvines yielding just 23 hl/ha. 24 months in French oak. Unfiltered. TA 5.6 g/l, pH 3.42, RS 2.3 g/l.  Mid to deep cherry red. Fragrant with red fruit, a little wild and sour, and a lightly floral character. You can almost smell the freshness derived from the cool site. And you get that freshness in spades on the palate but it is in perfect harmony with refined tannins and persistent, pure fruit. Just a baby but already refined and poised, the oak well hidden so that the finish is juicy and bright. Old-vine concentration without any excess weight or fat. Brilliant wine. (JH)