2008 Ergo Sum Shiraz

This first vintage, 2008 Ergo Sum, is produced from a cooler south facing vineyard, adjacent to the north facing Warner vineyard. Matured in 40% new oak, this wine has a very deep garnet color with a dark cherry and chocolate scented core complemented by a funky meat and tar character, plus a touch of black pepper, violets and some anise. There’s a medium to high level of very fine tannins and medium to high acid with fruit that is intense rather than concentrated. The finish is long. This will make delicious drinking from 2012 to 2020+. Of all my visits around Victoria this time, Giaconda was one of the most fascinating and rewarding. Fascinating because Rick Kinzbrunner is inspired and inspiring, rewarding because the wines are so mind-blowingly good. If not Australia’s greatest dry white wine, Giaconda’s Chardonnay is certainly right up there. The grapes come from a small (4 hectare) patch of silicified soil (unique to this area) just in front of the winery. In terms of production, there are no shortcuts. Receiving 100% barrel fermentation, natural yeasts and full malo-lactic, the wine spends just under 2 years in barrel, 1/3 new wood. It is left on its lees for 2 years, but if necessary some barrels are racked. There is not a lot of lees stirring here and the wine is never pumped or filtered but strictly bottled by gravity flow. Importer: Negociants USA; Napa, CA; tel. (707) 259-0993