2021 Riesling Schlossberg Cuvee Ste Catherine

Certified organic and biodynamic. A north-east-facing vineyard. Spontaneous fermentation, 100% malo (but there was very little malic acid – mostly tartaric acid). Eight months on lees. Tasted with grilled Arctic char, sweet and sour beets, mushroom shavings and fir foam. Even in a noisy restaurant at a noisy table (why is wine harder to smell in a noisy room?) this wine was arrestingly pungent. Concentrated and striking. Details lost in the chaos of restaurant smells and busyness and sound but the wine glided, glittering with purity, a sense of tightly restrained sensuousness. It was so arrestingly beautiful that the food, elegant as it was, became a side show. (TC)

The 2021 Riesling Cuvée Ste. Catherine is from 60-70-year old vines on the midslope of the Schlossberg Grand Cru. This took a whole year to ferment and stopped at around 5g/L of residual sweetness. It's richer than usual for the domaine, but with the acidity of 2021, this actually sits well. The most subtle hint of orange blossom is all the nose wants to reveal. More temperature reveals an overtone of pineapple juice. A tiny flicker of smoky reduction appears, too. The palate is bold, clean-cut, serene and scented. This is the crystalline nature of granite making itself known. The pithy texture makes the mouth water even more. The aroma and the texture of freshly zested Amalfi lemon are on the long finish. This has body but no fat - a gorgeous synthesis of freshness and citrus, long and elegant. Real drive and much energy. (Bone-dry)

Such a dense perfume! Flattering and rich. Long and lingering. Chalky finish. Crystalline and pungent. (JR)