2006 Mate's Vineyard Chardonnay

The 2006 Maté’s Vineyard Chardonnay has a slightly subdued bouquet of beeswax and pressed yellow flower aromas. The lightly spiced palate is well balanced with a saline entry and a dab of orange zest toward the finish. Fine, but I would drink this sooner rather than later. Like the Hunting Hill, I find more verve and vivacity in the 2007. Tasted at the Kumeu River Chardonnay vertical in London.

Edge of smoke, acacia pollen, soft dust and pear. Almost petillant at first, very lively. Quite intense with purposeful acidity and linear drive. Structure. Great length and acidity, but very tightly folded up, starched, tense, and (for quite a long time over the tasting) muted flavours. That smokiness on the nose seemed to grow, fill the glass. Then, right at the end of the tasting, it began to develop a bit of richness, spice, baked butternut. And soften. Decant! (TC)

Winemaker Michael Brajkovich MW. Screwcap. Restrained, mineral and dusty. Quite closed just now and surprisingly little evidence of oak on the nose. Tasted again three days later, the citrus aromas were starting to emerge. Really intense on the palate, pure citrus freshness, oak barely noticeable thanks to the terrific fruit quality and very good balance, though it adds another dimension to the texture, which is firm and dense. Lovely spice on the long finish. A baby but starting to show its pedigree. Like a fine Chassagne in a ripe year in very good hands. (JH)