2013 Gruner Veltliner M Smaragd
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Made with fruit from Loibenberg (a 50% share), Kellerberg, Liebenberg, with a small bit of Kollmütz, this installment of “M” enjoyed the longest pre-fermentation skin contact of any Pichler 2013, and was raised in a new large oval, then moved to tank shortly before bottling, which is when I last tasted it. Its impressive features include imposing richness of peach, melon and pineapple; an expansive and flatteringly creamy palate; high-toned inner-mouth allusions to almond extract; peach kernel piquancy; and pronounced smokiness and stoniness that suggest a mingling of Szechuan peppercorn, black tea and ash. The bright, Riesling-like juiciness characteristic of so many Grüner Veltliners from this vintage is absent here. But the finish of this static, statuesque wine (recall that “M,” after all, stands here for “monumental”) glows persistently in its evocation of peach kernel and pepper.
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Stephan Reinhardt, Wine Advocate
David Schildknecht, Vinous
Altre recensioni e punteggi
Lucas Pichler's monumental 2013 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd M opens with an ultra-ripe, concentrated and slightly speck-y yet still precise and even mineral-scented bouquet on the nose. Very rich and intense on the palate, this elegant, full-bodied, densely textured and powerful Veltliner from late-harvested grapes reveals an aromatic and juicy fruit core along with a stunningly vibrant acidity that gives structure, length and a lifting as well as lingering salinity and piquancy. Maracuya and other tropical fruit flavors dominate the aromatic aftertaste. Although I have no experience with matured samples of this Austrian icon Veltliner, I suspect it has an aging potential of 5-10 years and should be cellared at least for another 2 or 3 years.