2006 Riesling Loibner Berg Smaragd

The Pichler’s 2006 Riesling Smaragd Loibnerberg – like its Gruner Veltliner counterpart – displays imposing richness, but also slight heat. Oily-textured and opulent on the palate, this finishes full and strong, with peach, and black licorice predominating. It does not offer the last word in refinement, and I would be inclined to enjoy it over the next 4-6 years, but this is certainly one big mouthful of wine. Encouraged by the healthy ripeness of the crop, Lucas and F. X. Pichler let a significant percentage of their wines ferment spontaneously this year. They managed to turn out a trio of wines with true Federspiel character that combine ripe flavors with interplay and elegance at 12.5% alcohol. What’s more, they were able to harvest these in the first week of October, a tribute to the outstanding vine selections and impeccable vineyard work that characterize this estate. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler Importing (www.weygandtmetzler.com), Unionville, PA; tel. 610-486-0800