2011 Haynes Vineyard Chardonnay

One of the oldest continuously producing Chardonnay vineyards in Napa, the Haynes Vineyard was planted in 1966 by Pat and Duncan Haynes and sits in the shadow of Mt George, the once-active volcano responsible for Coombsville’s distinctive layer of volcanic soils. Dry farmed. Fermented completely in oak, one-third new. 400 c/s produced. Strongly mineral nose. Lots of spice and power but avoids honeyed buttery sweetness. A style that has power yet retains the freshness of the new wave. (JH)

Failla's 2011 Chardonnay Haynes Vineyard, from a site in Coombsville, is another wine endowed with serious class. Bright citrus, crushed rocks and white flowers are given an extra kick of energy by the long, cold growing season. In 2011, the Haynes is all about tension and wiriness. Ideally, the 2011 needs another year or two to settle down a bit. This is another site planted with head-trained vines, in this case on St. George rootstock, also dry farmed.

Bright yellow. Aromas of lemon and orange blossom, mirabelle, menthol and medicinal herbs. Superripe and densely packed, with a slightly edgy character to the youthful flavors of mirabelle, spices, tangerine, crystallized lemon peel and wet stone. Then tightens up dramatically on the dusty, tactile, bracing finish. Best on the nose today, but this distinctive chardonnay shows a certain delicacy for all its richness. I'd like to revisit it in five years.