2018 Graacher Domprobst Kabinett Auction 36 20

This auctioned Kabinett delivers a lush and luscious depth of fruitiness – evoking very ripe pear, quince and Persian melon – that arguably renders it more Spätlese- than Kabinett-like. But it represents an impressive effort, showcasing the nuttiness typical of Domprobst, which helps offset considerable but not excessive sweetness. Thomas Haag characterized the wine has “having a classic structure, with some coolness and race, not opulent [ üppig ] or fat, but instead precise and sharply defined.” I’m not so sure about those last two descriptors. But certainly there are delicacy and refreshing juiciness despite the wine’s lushness and subtly oily feel, and zest and seed-piquancy lend welcome invigoration to the lingering finish.