2012 Vilafonte Series M

Very sweet and concentrated but gentler-textured than earlier vintages of Zelma Long and Phil Freese's Cape red. Not too hot on the end. (JR)

The 2012 Series M is a blend of 48% Merlot, 17% Cabernet Sauvignon and 35% Malbec that matured for 16 months in French oak (25% new). It has a tightly wound bouquet with crème de cassis, dark plum and a touch of balsamic - very backward, a little surly and needing more time to come out of its shell. The palate is medium-bodied, very sweet on the entry and fleshy with that balsamic element coming through very strongly towards the finish. This just seems a little too glossy at the moment and lacks the class of previous vintages that I have enjoyed.

(14.2% alcohol; 48% Merlot, 35% Malbec and 17% Cabernet Sauvignon, from vines planted at a density of up to 7,200 per hectare on virgin soil in 1995, 1996 and 1997; aged for 16 months in second-fill French oak): Deep ruby-red. Compelling floral lift to the very ripe aromas of black raspberry, dark chocolate and licorice pastille. Boasts lovely tension in the mouth, with sweet black raspberry, violet, licorice, menthol and dark chocolate flavors showing outstanding purity and a seamless texture. The Malbec element adds a wildness to this blend, not to mention a plush quality to the middle palate, while the Merlot is very firmly structured. Finishes with noble tannins and terrific length. This is a Merlot-based blend, but the percentage of Malbec is growing, noted Mike Ratcliffe, who is the managing director of this project (Americans Zelma Long and Phil Freese are in charge of winemaking and viticulture, respectively) in addition to running his family's Warwick Estate.