2006 Riesling Steinertal Smaragd

The 2006 Riesling Smaragd Steinertal presents a brighter, more penetrating personality than any other in this collection, with intense citricity and tactile sizzle of citrus zest, Sichuan pepper, wood smoke, and crushed stone. Dramatically intense and insistent on the palate, lean and focused in its finish of gripping pungency and lip-curling brightness, this is ultimately less remarkable today than the contrasting Loibenberg, but the leading role might change hands more than once in the course of bottle evolution ... for those few people lucky enough to follow these two Riesling for a decade. The most exciting collection I have thus far tasted at this address – like a number of those in the Wachau – departs from the script that was written very early, touting 2006 as a “Gruner Veltliner vintage.” Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300