2019 Oestrich Doosberg Grosses Gewachs

The intensely lemon-yellow colored 2019 Doosberg Riesling Trocken GG offers a deep, complex and slightly flinty bouquet of ripe but coolish and spicy fruits intertwined with notes of crushed stones and lemon peel. Full-bodied, enormously fresh and saline on the palate, this is a rich and intense but possibly even more pure, refined and elegant dry Riesling with a filigreed structure, crystalline acidity and stimulating, refreshing phenolic grip. This Doosberg is less monolithic than in other vintages but reveals surprising precision, finesse and filigreed purity that is reminiscent of slate and quartzite rather than deep clay. This is still very young but highly promising. The 2019 Doosberg was aged in doppelstück and stück for one year and for another six months on the fine lees in stainless steel. 12.5% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in April 2022.

Spontaneous fermentation and 16 months on the lees have produced a composition of truly concentrated fruit and powerful minerality, which still leaves room for fine nuances of spring blossom, herbal freshness and even a distinctive notion of wood-ageing. I have never been a fan of coconut or vanilla in Riesling and although it’s most tastefully done here, I am reminded of Cicero’s ceterum censeo  … but it’s still a fantastic wine. (MS)