2016 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese (3 star) GK

Molitor's 2016 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese *** (Golden Capsule) is the one and only of the sweet three-starred sextet that indicates a higher percentage of botrytis (whereas the two-starred Auslese is beautifully pure and delicate). Intense and with iodine notes on the nose where ripe, concentrated Riesling aromas are displayed, this is a round, lush, intense and creamy textured Auslese with great elegance, balance and tropical fruit flavors in the opulent, gorgeously rich yet still refined finish that also reveals very fine tannins. Bottled in September 2017; tasted March 2018.

Decadent wisteria and lily perfume mingles with apple jelly, marzipan, white raisin and caramel on the nose. The impression on the soft, creamy, expansive, viscous palate is similarly decadent and confectionary, with a hint of bruised apple skin serving for lightly oxidative enhancement such as was witnessed in the corresponding Wehlener Sonnenuhr. This finishes with seductively soothing persistence. A sense of sweetness that threatened at midpalate to become cloying has the courtesy to back off slightly. Any sense of citricity present here is of candied peel, and anyone who places a premium on nobly sweet Riesling preserving freshness, clarity and animation will find those virtues impressively displayed in Molitor Auslesen other than this one, impressive though it is in its own way.