2014 Ungeheuer Riesling GG

This was fermented and aged in relatively new large casks. Lemon and crab apple strongly marked by pip and skin make for an invigoratingly tart and chewy impression on the firm palate, with roasted rutabaga lending an earthy undertone. The finish of this pithy Riesling is undeniably sustained. But resinous aromas and a slightly drying note point toward an awkward degree of oak exposure that I doubt time in bottle will rectify.

Although the von Buhl signature of spontaneous fermentation and a dab of barrique are clearly recognisable, the Ungeheuer does express a difference in terroir. In this wine, herbaceous notes play the role of best supporting actor to a generous amount of fruit, grapefruit and lime. With invigorating juicy acidity, fine bitter peel and pith and salty minerality, this is a new interpretation of old-established terroir. (MS)

Apricot, peach, honey and caramel. Completely beautiful – so expressive and alluring on the nose, then the palate is precisely balanced with breadth and substance. So indulgent but with no excess flab. (RH)