2005 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese (1 Star)

Molitor’s “three star”auction lot 2005 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese*** (he participates in the so-called “Bernkasteler Ring” and its auction, not the VDP) both smells and tastes of nougat, apple jelly, and butter cream, with a rather exaggerated sweetness as though one concentrated and made ice cream or candy out of a normal Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese. Certainly this is strikingly creamy in texture, leesy, and palpably dense, but anyone who seeking a juicy, fresh fruit character will be disappointed. Although I find it even more difficult to rate this wine than its predecessors, I think it is important to record my impressions to a degree that testifies to the wine’s singular character. It seems concentrated enough to age well but I have no idea what it might become in the process. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling trocken (unknown; 85), 2005 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Kabinett trocken (unavailable; 86+?), 2005 Wehlener Klosterberg Riesling Spatlese feinherb (unknown; 84-86), 2005 Zeltinger Himmelreich Riesling Auslese*** feinherb (unknown; 85-87). Importer: Schmitt Sohne, Millersville, MD; tel. (410) 729-4083