2017 Churchill

Lots of raisins and tar, as well as ash and treacle tart, making for a heady, powerful nose. Full-bodied, sweet and quite tannic with juicy layers of morello cherries and blackberries. Drink from 2030.

The 2017 Vintage Port, set to be bottled in about two weeks but the final blend, is a field blend coming in at 108 grams of residual sugar. A blend of Quinta da Gricha and other properties the producer owns, it was aged for two years in used vats. On opening, this immediately shows more depth than its Gricha sibling, and more pop on the finish. The flavors are not quite as lifted, but it's close. Some air brings out a little more power and a lusher feel. A step up on the Gricha in this vintage, this is admirable for its greater firmness and length. It, too, will be approachable young, but it will be more likely to benefit from some cellaring. Not yet imported, this runs around 75 euros in Portugal.

Opaque core with narrow purple rim. Ripe on the nose with both dried dark fruits and fresh. Lots of very ripe cherry and blackberry and blueberry, very open. Thick and chewy in texture and more spicy on the palate, slightly charry. A little bit of heat on the back of the palate. A rumbustious, full-bodied, rich-fruited wine with just enough freshness and lots of spice. (JH)