2005 Riesling Schlossberg Grand Cru

From the cooler, upper portions of this granite-based cru, the Weinbach 2005 Riesling Schlossberg smells piquantly of lemon, resin, and peach kernel, fills the mouth with bright citrus and obvious if hard-to-characterize minerality and finishes absolutely dry, mineral, lusciously citric, and very subtly bitter. This rapier but refined and deliciously delicate Riesling should be fascinating to follow for at least 8-10 years. The dynamic trio of Fallers continues to bottle some of France’s (hardly just Alsace’s) richest and most flamboyant wines. Beginning with 2005, all of their vineyards are being biodynamically farmed. Laurence Faller finds their 2005s in general “more focused and clear” (this was especially true of Riesling) despite their often prominent botrytis component, and the 2004s richer. I suppose it goes without saying, but one has to carefully scrutinize each Weinbach label, so numerous are the cuvees. And as wonderful as is the distinctiveness exhibited by the vast majority of wines here, even a geek like yours truly could be forgiven for asking whether somewhat fewer different ottling might benefit consumers as well as journalists! Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802