2007 Le Cigare Volant

The 2007 Le Cigare Volant (En Foudre) displays more tannin and is leaner and earthier. It has a similar color, but less obvious fruit and more austerity. It’s good to see the highly commercial Randall Grahm finally get more serious about wine quality. Of course, he long ago laughed his way to the bank, selling hundreds of thousands of cases, promoting “terroir” while making massive quantities of commercial wines that had little evidence of any serious terroir or character. However, he seems to have found religion over the last few years. Graham has decided to offer his Cigare Volant, a California take on France’s Chateauneuf du Pape, in three formats – his regular cuvee, one aged in large, presumably old wood foudres, and one aged in smaller demi-muids (which are still bigger than conventional barrels). All three are worth buying and drinking. Each is a blend of 60% Grenache, 32% Syrah, and the rest Mourvedre and Cinsault. Tel. (888) 819-6789

Rich and quite tannic. Pretty alcoholic and pretty Châteauneuf-like. Spicy with a chewy end. (JR)