2014 Cote Rotie Les Roziers

(25 percent new oak) Saturated ruby. Smoke-accented aromas of fresh dark berries, candied licorice and peppery spices, joined by a slowly emerging smoky element. Bitter cherry and blackberry flavors show very good clarity and lift thanks to a core of juicy acidity. Finishes extremely long and sappy, with building sweetness and smooth, even tannins lending gentle grip. This wine is quite a success for what I'm sure will be an overlooked vintage, sitting as it does between the outstanding 2013s and extraordinary 2015s.

Brilliant violet. Ripe black and blue fruits, olive, candied flowers and peppery spices on the deeply perfumed nose, lent vivacity by a bright mineral overtone. Velvety, sweet and seamless in texture, offering powerful boysenberry, violet pastille and spicecake flavors that tighten up slowly with air. Powerful yet lithe, showing solid finishing thrust and supple tannins on the extremely long, blue fruit-dominated finish.

Rubbery nose at first. Perfumed, succulent, light and perfectly formed structure. Greater persistence than at first appears – fades gradually and gracefully. (RH)