2007 Vinsobres Les Hauts de Julien Vieilles Vignes

Believe it or not, the 2007 Cotes du Rhone-Villages Vinsobres Vieilles Vignes Les Hauts Julien is even better. A 500-case lot of equal parts Syrah and Grenache, it is the greatest Vinsobres I have ever tasted, and it admirably demonstrates the potential that exists in this high elevation, cool climate terroir. An inky/blue/purple color is accompanied by an extraordinary perfume of crushed rocks, black truffles, blueberries, blackberries, licorice, and charcoal. Sensationally deep, extremely full-bodied and powerful yet also ethereal in its elegant, freshness, and laser-like precision, this is a tour de force in winemaking that is capable of lasting 15 or more years. One of the great estates of the Rhone Valley, Chateau Beaucastel has been run by several generations of the Perrin family, beginning with the late Jacques Perrin (who died in 1978), then the brothers Jean-Pierre and Francois, and now their sons Thomas, Marc, Pierre, and Mathieu. Beaucastel has nearly 200 acres in vine in Chateauneuf du Pape, and they have branched out with an impressive operation under the Perrin et Fils label, purchasing grapes and acquiring land (in Vinsobres and Gigondas, for example). Their goal is to become the most recognized name for high quality wines in the southern Rhone. As shrewd consumers know, one of the best values in under $10 a bottle wine is La Vieille Ferme. The Perrin et Fils cuvees include wines made from purchased grapes as well as their new acquisitions in Vinsobres, Gigondas (25 acres), and the Cotes du Rhone village of Cairanne (35 acres). The Perrins enjoyed tremendous success with their 2008 red wines, largely because yields ranged between 18 hectoliters per hectare for Beaucastel, to only 20 hectoliters per hectare for Coudoulet. The mildew that affected everyone was the culprit. The entire family acknowledged there was an extraordinary triage and culling out of the grapes at the sorting tables. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802