2023 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Reid Achleiten

Weissenkirchen. The region's most famous vineyard – a 21.39-ha outcropping traced with terraces rising from near the water's edge to 361 m in elevation. Multitude of soils and exposures. Certified Sustainable Austria. This just oozes charm from the first sweet whiff of spicy apricot fruit and flowers to the first taste of stone-fruit compote. It's lovely, surprisingly delicate, with floral notes giving it levity and stony substance underneath. Most of the flavour is up front; the finish could be longer. But it is charming now. Actually, I want to drink it all. Lasts, fragrant and oh so charming. (TQT)

This excellent expression of Ried Achleiten shows white tree fruit and white pepper aromas on the elegant, well-structured, medium-bodied palate. The finish is less complex but well balanced. Drink or hold.

The 2023 Grüner Veltliner Achleiten Smaragd is still alive with yeastiness, but white pepper spice shimmers through. With more air, there is a note of iced Mirabelle coulis, of exquisite, ripe, juicy freshness, with a tinge of bergamot peel. This is astonishingly aromatic and expressive for a barrel sample. The palate is taut, compact and expressive. It is concentrated and brings its yeasty intensity to the fore, entering into a pact with the zesty freshness to drive this forward. Superb. It does not taste of a warm year at all with all of its focus. Superb site, superb wine. (Bone-dry)