2020 Tokaji Dry Furmint Mandolas

100% Furmint on volcanic soils. Winemaker Gonzalo Iturriaga claims this vintage is the most elegant yet. They use Hungarian oak but can’t overdo it. It’s important to pick ripe fruit, ‘otherwise the acid can kill you’, he says. Botrytis is always a possibility but you need patience. Tank-fermented mainly – maybe some barrel. Racked into 350- and 500-litre barrels (although they are moving to big foudres) and tank to keep freshness and elegance. One-third goes through malo. Stirring depends on the vintage (in 2018 no stirring). The 2019 was released two years ago but this vintage was held back because of the acidity. This bottle had had 12 months’ bottle age. Alex Hunt MW of UK importers Berkmann sells it as an alternative to excessively priced white burgundy. Vega Sicilia owner Pablo Álvarez does lots of blind tastings of this and white burgundy apparently. Masses of green-apple acidity but good texture and depth. Absolutely no hurry to drink this! (JR)

100% Furmint on volcanic soils. Winemaker Gonzalo Iturriaga claims this vintage is the most elegant yet. They use Hungarian oak but can’t overdo it. It’s important to pick ripe fruit, ‘otherwise the acid can kill you’, he says. Botrytis is always a possibility but you need patience. Tank-fermented mainly – maybe some barrel. Racked into 350- and 500-litre barrels (although they are moving to big foudres) and tank to keep freshness and elegance. One-third goes through malo. Stirring depends on the vintage (in 2018 no stirring). The 2019 was released two years ago but this vintage was held back because of the acidity. This bottle had had 12 months’ bottle age. Alex Hunt MW of UK importers Berkmann sells it as an alternative to excessively priced white burgundy. Vega Sicilia owner Pablo Álvarez does lots of blind tastings of this and white burgundy apparently. Masses of green-apple acidity but good texture and depth. Absolutely no hurry to drink this! (JR)

Lemon, brioche and crushed stones on the nose, followed by a creamy, medium-bodied palate that’s cut through by a laser beam of high acidity. Textured, with a linear and mouthwatering finish. Drink now.