2019 Urziger Wurzgarten Alte Reben GG
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The 2019 Riesling Ürziger Würzgarten Unterst Pichter Grosses Gewächs Réserve is from ancient, ungrafted vines in the eponymous parcel. It spent two years on lees in Fuder and four years in bottle. Supple dried fruit notes come with slightly ethereal overtones of dried yarrow crushed with apple syrup. Slight pepperiness adds verve on the nose. Superb concentration adds dried lemon, lime rind and earthy notes. This is bold, concentrated and full-on, with wonderful energy and intent. All the power and drive of the volcanic stone is right here. (Dry)
Punteggi della critica
Punteggio medio
Jancis Robinson MW
Tamlyn Currin, jancisrobinson.com
Altre recensioni e punteggi
Full bottle 1,268 g. Natural fermentation in oak. Aged 12 months on the lees. From a vineyard that was classified in 1868. They own 7 ha, and of that 3.5 ha are on their own roots, never replanted – all more than 100 years old. Fermented with indigenous yeast in big old barrels. They sulphur after fermentation to avoid malo (we don’t like malo) and then the wine sits for 12 months on full yeast, no racking until October and then bottled in November. No bâtonnage. Listening to Ernie Loosen is a bit like listening to a hypnotist, and I did worry if I was falling under some kind of spell. Hence the importance of coming back to taste the wines without his persuasive personality in the screen weaving his wonderful story magic. But this does smell spicy! Has muscle and density; dry but not wincingly so (thinking of you, Jim Barry Florita 2017). The fruit more quince than citrus; root ginger; kumquat; golden cherries and nectarine. Even a little nuttiness. Very complex. It doesn’t have the chiselled severity of the Florita but it has thoroughbred grace and race and precision. And the fruit intensity is so pure that I had goosebumps from my spine down to my wrists. This will age and age, but my goodness I would struggle not to drink it now. (TC)
From volcanic soils, the 2019 Ürziger Würzgarten Riesling GG Alte Reben is beautifully clear, fresh and subtle on the precise and highly finessed bouquet of slate, iodine and herbal scents. The warm and elegant Riesling fruit intertwined with very fine herbal notes represents the very best of this exceptional grand cru in its original, much smaller size. Almost entirely sourced from the Urglück, this is a lush and intense, enormously powerful yet restrained and slatey Würzgarten GG with crystalline acidity that leads to a long, intense and still slightly astringent finish with refreshing lemon features. This wine is still developing and has the potential to become another giant of the vintage. Tasted at the domain in September 2020.
Apple, pear and more than a hint of spice delight the olfactory perception, although there’s also still a little yeasty exuberance of youth. Very viscous on the palate. Juicy stone fruit makes the first call, but is getting caught up by a cool stony minerality towards the finish. (MS)