2016 Brauneberger Klostergarten Pinot Noir (3 Star)

Because this bottling consists of the ostensibly lesser casks from Klostergarten, all of which ended up being ones from parcels that Molitor leases and farms rather than owns, he elected not to award it even a single one of his purportedly quality-signifying stars. But I have to say that I didn’t initially notice that absence of stars when I tasted, simply assuming that I was sampling the usual “two-star” Klosterberg, and was flabbergasted to discover my error. It isn’t the first time I have disagreed with Molitor’s star assessment, but surely the most dramatic. The color here is relatively light for a Molitor Pinot Noir and exhibits a hint of garnet at the rim. Cherry, red currant, rose hip, sumac berry, tamarind, basil and black tea are accompanied on the multifaceted nose by suggestions of red meat in roasted and reduced stock form. The overall effect is quite stunning, and the satin-textured palate retains crisp-edged, juicy fresh fruit while offering marrowy meaty depth, a description that applies equally to a mouthwatering, multilayered finish of utmost clarity, invigoratingly accented by fruit pit piquancy. Here we have depth of flavor and textural allure without any jamminess or excess fat, and mouthwatering meatiness without any gaminess. And I’m going to bet – maybe I can get Molitor to put up a bottle of Schlossberg Pinot – that this wine will prove at least as long-lived as several of its allegedly far superior siblings.