2015 Riesling Trocken

Sourced substantially from Ruppertsberg, Deidesheim and Friedelsheim but with other villages implicated as well, this multi-lot blend resulted, just as with the von Buhl generic Sekt, in a single large cuvée . Grapefruit, lime and white peach combine for a penetratingly aromatic, sappy, tingling, bright inner-mouth impression. Stony and chalky notes are signaled on the nose and offer lovely counterpoint on the palate. The wine comes off as surprisingly and delightfully buoyant for a wine of 12.5 percent alcohol, finishing ultra-clear and full of energy. “I continue to maintain,” remarked Grosche as we tasted this wine, “that 2013 was a great vintage for the top Mittelhaardt vineyards, provided you were fearless and didn’t acidify, but in 2015 even the basic material was damned good.”