2011 Riesling Von Der Fels

Representing as usual a selection from across his top sites, Keller's 2011 Riesling trocken Von der Fels delivers pronounced citrus rind and pip piquancy, along with notes of pumpkin or winter squash with their seeds and myriad - alkaline, stony, saline - suggestions of things mineral. A tad lower in alcohol than the corresponding Gutsriesling, it manages a similar trick of projecting substantiality at the same time as levity and vivacity. This impressively persistent cuvee is likely to gain an edge on that generic if permitted a few years in bottle, even though today it's marginally less infectiously juicy. Cool nights from mid-summer on - but especially in October - played into and seemed to confirm Keller's strategy of depending on low temperatures to truly release the aromatic potential of Riesling grapes (though he is the first to admit that he hasn't a notion of why this is so). "It's critical that you wait for Riesling until you can get into that period" of chilly weather, he opines, "and this year there was no reason you couldn't wait; and then plenty of time to strategize picking. But," he adds, "you couldn't get there if you didn't leave large enough yields," because otherwise one's picking hand would be forced by potential alcohol. In this year, Keller was able to purchase from Franz Karl Schmitt his iconic, eponymous former estate's best parcels in Niersteiner Pettenthal and Hipping, sites with an illustrious reputation from bygone years that Keller has wasted no time in reviving and polishing. (It was inspiring to be able to walk these particular vineyards on the "Rotem Hang" with both of them late last summer and share in their obvious mutual delight at this historic real estate transaction.) Increased refinement, delicacy, and complexity continue to characterize the best of Keller's residually sweet wines, and it's clear that his range of "R" bottlings from top sites - approximately halbtrocken in specifications - is taken with increased seriousness and will expand, annually incorporating at least one such wine that (as is now also the case with Morstein, Abtserde and G-Max) won't be bottled before August or released before the following spring. Nor has Keller given up his intention - VDP ideology to the contrary notwithstanding - of rendering residually sweet Kabinett from his Nierstein crus; it's just that 2011 fruit was too ripe (and 2010 had been too scarce). Once again this year, despite devoting more time to tasting the wines of this estate than to those of almost any other, I still cannot pretend to have sampled Keller's entire 2011 vintage collection, the especially notable omissions being T.B.A.s from Hubacker and Kirchspiel. (Time has also conspired to keep me from reporting on Keller's 2009 Pinots, which I have as yet tasted only before they were assembled. Numerous details on Keller's sites, stylistic ideals, and labeling practices can be found in my issue 198 report. And, apropos labeling, Abtserde continues to have to appear in print as AbtsE-, even though for purposes of the Wine Advocate database we permit this site to state its name!) Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644, Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463, and Frances Rose Imports Inc., Huntley, IL; tel. (815) 382 9533

As the translation ‘of the rocks’ already implies, this dry estate Riesling sees its strength in a minerally expression rather than fruity flattery. A chewy and almost gravelly tangent lends firm contours to an ample body. Acidity has not been neglected and contributes to a sound and rugged performance. A perfect partner for authentic German cuisine, and that does not always mean Bratwurst. (MS).

Fine and refined. Lightly aromatic, lots of minerals. Juicy sour freshness, more grapefruit than lemon but lovely mineral intensity. (JH)