2011 Monzinger Fruhlingsplatzchen Spatlese

The Emrich-Schonleber 2011 Monzinger Fruhlingsplatzchen Riesling Spatlese delivers scents and lusciously juicy palate evocations of quince, mango, musk melon, and mirabelle, deriving welcome counterpoint from subtly-tart and piquant suggestions of fruit skin, toasted nuts and fruit pit. There is an even more obvious sense of levity here than in the corresponding (generically-labeled) Kabinett, despite the wine’s sense of expansiveness, subtle creaminess and textural plushness. (Dissolved CO2 plays one role in engendering liveliness.) This Riesling of impeccably balanced sweetness finishes with both soothing and subtly stimulating persistence. As Frank Schonleber points out, it is much easier to render a Mosel-style, unabashedly sweet Spatlese in a year like 2010 than in 2011, when in fact – in his words – “it was damned hard.” This one should remain lovely for at least the better part of a decade. Veteran Werner Schonleber stresses the role played in 2011’s high quality by tiny drought-impacted berries as well as, naturally, the growing season’s early start; generally cool nighttime temperatures; and five weeks of ideal weather from mid-September on. That small berry size obviated any green harvest, but there was a substantial “pre-harvest” of Riesling – destined largely for generic bottlings – from September 26, with the two Pinots being picked immediately thereafter. The main harvest for Riesling commenced October 3, lasting for two weeks. Like many estates, botrytis arrived here directly on the heels of the heavy rain that fell around September 10-12, but dried to ideal purity and fineness to serve for ennobling concentration without overtly fungal character or less desirable concurrent infections. Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608 9644; also imported by Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389- 9463