2018 Hoe Steen Chenin Blanc

The 2018 Hoë-Steen is predominantly Chenin Blanc, planted toward Darling on deep iron-clay soils and usually picked after the reds. The vines were planted in 1968. This has a more stony bouquet than the Skaliekop, a very slight nutty/smoky note emanating from a few Palomino vines. The palate is just superb. It is supremely well defined with a lovely lock of salinity that runs from start to finish. There is tangible energy to this wine, which displays a hint of tangerine and even menthol toward the finish. Superb.

H oë means tall and Steen the old name for Chenin Blanc in South Africa. Vineyard planted in 1968 west of Malmesbury towards Darling, in red iron- and clay-rich soils. Mass-selection vinifera – p rimarily Chenin Blanc, but some Cape Riesling (Crouchen Blanc), False Pedro (Cañocazo), Palomino, Sémillon and Clairette Blanche vines have been discovered – grafted onto rootstocks a year after the rootstocks were planted. This south-facing 2-ha (5-acre) vineyard ripens late and was their last vineyard to be harvested in 2018 (even after Cinsault), about a week later than usual in the second half of February. Smaller canopies due to the lack of rainfall for three consecutive winters. Hand sorted, whole-bunch pressed, one year in old French oak barrels. A Certified Heritage Vineyards wine. The yield was 3 t/ha in 2017 but <2 t/ha in 2018. I asked whether he adjusted pricing to take account of this? ‘We’re not Burgundy, so no,’ said David. 2,000 bottles produced. Creamy texture. Racy and lifted. Very dancing and fine. Real impact on the palate. Lightly chewy finish. Very long. (JR)