2023 Tolpuddle Chardonnay
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Note di degustazione
The 20-ha north-east-facing vineyard is situated on a gentle slope and the soil is light silica over sandstone. Hand-picked, whole-bunch pressed and fermented in French oak barriques. Aged nine months in barrel with a mixture of toast levels, a third of which was new. Gentle lees-stirring as required, then a further two months in tank on lees prior to bottling. TA 7 g/l, pH 3.2. Even with one-third new oak, it is the cool-climate fruit that shines in pure citrus with a hint of clementine. The oak seems to add more on the palate, especially in the succulent, mildly chewy but smooth texture. Really holds your attention without being dramatic or extreme. Pure, elegant and long with oak spice only at the very end. (JH)
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Punteggio medio
Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
Richard Hemming MW, jancisrobinson.com
Altre recensioni e punteggi
Sulphidic complexity that has matchstick, slate and mineral complexity. Underripe stone fruit that gives peach, apricot and even a bit of pineapple. Still in its infancy, of course, especially in the light of the 2015 and 2017 tasted beforehand, which show how far this wine can go. (RH)
The 2023 Chardonnay feels fleshy and wholesome compared to the crushed shell restraint of the 2022 tasted alongside. Here, the fruit has a billowing aspect, the phenolics are softer and the fruit rounder than the previous vintage. The season was the coldest and latest on record, and it was also very wet. The wine's performance in the mouth is different here; the tannins are present and accounted for, but they have less linearity than the other wines in the lineup. The acidity is salty, as per the vineyard's stamp, and the fruit is powerful, as per the same. This is a super wine. It won a slew of trophies and awards, and as a result, the wine sold out far quicker than usual. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.
Aged for 10 months in oak. Lean, precise style with restraint and savoury power, and a little prickle on the tongue (feels a little like low-level CO 2 , but surely not?). Acid-driven palate with plenty of flavour but there is a space in the fruit that is yet to be fully filled by the complexity. Enjoyable leesy texture. (RH)