2016 Hohenmorgen Trocken Edition G.C.

Maybe it’s the Deidesheim terroir, but just like the Kalkofen the Hohenmorgen exhibits a certain, if gentle, character of herbs and herbaceous elements, which seems to set them apart from the Forst renditions. This also means a little more bite in terms of acidity, and despite a fair body and powerful performance there is enough room for a delicate measure of fine minerality. (MS)

From cask – just a single 600-liter Halbstück from 2016 – this is site-typically redolent of sweet corn, lime, mint and iris. The hauntingly cooling, bittersweet effect continues on a silken, incipiently creamy palate. There is an abundance of primary juiciness that extends to a vibrant, near-ineradicable finish whose influx of salinity sets the salivary glands to palpitating and whose tingling sense of stony mineral impingement positively shimmers, leaving tongue and taster quivering in anticipation of the next sip.