2011 Gigondas

Dark crimson. Very appetising nose with hints of tar. Really dense but with that cool breeze on the finish that characterises St-Gayan. It doesn't taste anything like this strong so care should be taken with this refreshing but treacly blend. Bravo! (JR)

Bright ruby-red. Vibrant raspberry and cherry aromas are enlivened by blood orange and white pepper. Fresh red fruit flavors put on weight with air, with an exotic floral pastille quality contributing complexity. This lithe, balanced Gigondas finishes with good tangy cut, gentle tannins and spicy persistence.

A blend of 80% Grenache, 15% Syrah and a splash of Mourvedre that’s aged 60% in foudre and 40% in tank, the 2011 Gigondas Tradition is another classic, traditional effort that gives up plenty of wild herbs, pepper, tobacco leaf and underbrush-styled aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, beautifully made and with solid mid-palate depth and sweet tannin, it too should have a decade or more of longevity. This was a rock-solid lineup of wines by proprietor Jean Pierre Meffre. While the Tradition and In Nomine Patris releases are staunchly traditional in style, the Fontmaria spends time in new oak and is the most modern-styled of the releases. They are all beautifully made and worth checking out. Christopher Cannan Selection, various American importers including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and Diamond Wine Merchants, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 567-9897