2005 Saarburger Rausch Spatlese

Only one wine in this year’s collection is labeled 2005 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Spatlese (there is no auction cuvee), and it combines fruit from later pickings with several early selections of partially shrivelled berries that greatly enhanced the wine’s must weight and acidity. A pungent nose of spiced apple, cherry, and white raisin leads into a palate whose creaminess adds allure, while not at all detracting from this Riesling’s fundamental delicacy and duty to refresh. Pungent suggestions of apple peel, citrus rind, and slate add counterpoint to a rich yet refined finish of ravishing persistence. I would not hesitate to sock away for up to 25 years one of the roughly 670 cases made of this wine. Also recommended: 2005 Riesling ($16.00; 85+?). Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800-596-9463