2017 IGP Vaucluse Rouge

Sporting a deep purple hue, the 2017 Vaucluse is based on 50% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre, and the rest Counois, Carignan, and other southern Rhône varieties. Incredible notes of plums, blueberries, jammy blackberries, lavender, and ground herbs emerge from this full-bodied, massive wine that stays light on its feet and graceful. I've no doubt the alcohol is north of 16%, and I suspect there's 3-5 grams of residual, which puts this in the same realm as the iconic Cuvée Spéciale from the late Henri Bonneau. Exotic, port-like, and super-intense, it nevertheless has remarkable purity, ripe tannins, and a thrilling finish. This will be a controversial wine in some circles, as it doesn't conform to any type of typicity, but it's no less great. It should have 20 years of prime drinking.