2009 Pivot Pinot Noir

Deeper garnet than the 2012. Fruit and minerals with real punch on the palate. A touch of smokiness. Much richer and chunkier than the 2012. (JR)

The 2009 Pinot Noir The Pivot is one of the more delicate wines in this lineup of 2009 Pinots. Weightless and elegant, the Pivot impresses for its understated fruit and subtle floral notes. Crushed flowers, spices, dark red cherries and herbs add lift on the finish. This is another superb, classy wine from Littorai. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. I was totally blown away by the wines I tasted with proprietor Ted Lemon. These are some of the most refined, polished Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs being made in California today. I can’t recommend the wines highly enough. Lemon describes 2009 as a mild season with prolonged bloom that resulted in considerable shatter and a high amount of shot berries. There was no real heat to speak of in September. The 2010s were harvested during the first two weeks of October, much later than the 2009s. I also tasted a handful of 2010 Pinots from tank that appear promising, even if stylistically they aren’t as generous as the 2009s. Tel. (707) 823-9586; www.littorai.com

(13.8% alcohol; from vines planted in 2003): Good full red. Musky, slightly reduced aromas of redcurrant, plum, mocha, black tea, iron and tobacco, plus a whiff of rhubarb and pomegranate. Then supple, fleshy and smooth, with a restrained sweetness to the flavors of crunchy berries, spices and tea. Very distinctive wine, at once broad and weightless. With its peppery, spicy aftertaste, this conveys a strong whole-cluster character.