2009 Dorsheimer Goldloch Auslese

The Diel 2009 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Auslese smells almost butcher shop-like in its evocations of smoked meats and sauteed sweetbreads, though coming on the heels of such an intriguingly mineral and animal Pittermannchen Auslese, I found this less shocking than I otherwise might have. Candied lime and grapefruit peel; pear nectar, and white raisin further inform this creamily-rich, subtly oleaginous Auslese, and the sort of mouthwatering salinity and maritime mystery that has rendered a number of Diel 2009s especially alluring is present here, too. Hints of ginger as well as the aforementioned citrus rinds add invigoration to this fascinatingly multifaceted performance that should be worth witnessing for the next 25-30 years. Caroline Diel’s 2009 collection is noteworthy not only for a range of outstanding Riesling such as has long been anticipated (though seldom bettered) at this estate, but also for a set of wines from the Pinot family – all, incidentally, now labeled with French rather than German names for their varieties – that in my estimation mark a significant up-tick in quality. That this estate has been famous in Germany for its work with Pinots ever since Armin Diel assumed charge in 1987 and began barrique vinification, I am of course well aware. But only in recent years have I witnessed tendencies to restrain the influence of new wood and to encourage real subtlety, which seem to me prerequisites for achieving with these varieties anything remotely approaching the class of Schlossgut Diel’s Rieslings. The 2009 Pinots were harvested in mid-October and most of the Rieslings in the two weeks following. The superb botrytis selections were all picked-out ahead of even the Pinots. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300