2009 Sancerre Monts Damnes

Honeysuckle, narcissus, honeydew melon, white peach, and pineapple on the nose of Francois Cotat’s 2009 Sancerre Les Monts Damnes all gain reinforcement from a hint of sweetness on the palate. Mint and chalk notes offer at least metaphoric cooling and the residual sugar literally helps lighten what is still a slightly warm alcoholic effect. Even so, the finish here is impressively soothing and long. This is just about as opulent as Sancerre can get, even allowing for the cuvees speciales that the Cotat family have bottled over the years. Given the track record for Cotat wines from this site, I hesitate in betting against its aging well, but I really don’t envision this gaining anything past 5-6 years out. In a sign of the vintage, Francois Cotat’s lightest wine from 2009 was his rose, which weighed in at 14.5% alcohol. The Sauvignons cluster around 15%. Cotat compares this vintage with 1989, whose wines were similarly ripe and full, but aren’t exactly classic Cotat, nor the most interesting of mature Cotat wines to enjoy today. That said, there is always an element of mystery in the glass (and not only there) at this address, and I’ll gladly be made a fool of by an old Cotat wine, which might one day turn out to be a 2009. (For more information about recent developments chez Cotat, see my report in issue 172.) A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93