2009 Sancerre Clos de Beaujeu

Over-ripe honeydew melon, papaya, nut oils, candied orange peel, and caraway, on the nose of Boulay’s 2009 Sancerre Clos de Beaujeu migrate to a soft, lush, faintly warm (14.5%) palate that evinces a slight sense of sweetness from sheer ripeness, glycerin, and low acidity. (In fact, this has only 2 grams of residual sugar. Perhaps if he had been able, Boulay ought to have taken advantage of the formula “4+1 grams” permitted for the appellation in this extreme vintage, and thereby have spared his wine considerable alcohol.) A lovely scallop-like sense of sweet and saline savor characteristic for this cuvee lends depth to a lush and – save for its heat – soothing finish. This will doubtless appeal more to tasters who are not fans of classic Sancerre, and it should prove perfectly adaptable at table – just not in those places where its identity would lead you to expect. It also seems prudent to plan on serving this over the next couple of years, even though under normal circumstances I associate excellent aging potential with this cuvee. Unfortunately, Boulay’s 2009 Sancerre Mont Damnes – which incorporated the entirely of his holdings in that site, including the old vines that in recent vintages have underwritten a separate cuvee “Comtesse” – could not deal with the heat generated by more than 15% alcohol, and so – despite a lush texture and nutty richness – cannot be all that wholeheartedly recommended. A among those Sancerre growers whom I consider the odds-on favorites to succeed year after year, Gerard Boulay was one of the worst struck by the effects of hail and precipitant ripening, reflected in low acidity and high alcohol. He did not raise any portion of his special cuvees in cask, but kept them in tank to try to counteract the aforementioned effects of the vintage. A Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29