2023 Coddington Chardonnay
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The 2023 Coddington Chardonnay is sleek and polished. The fruit is on the kiwi fruit, almond meal and white peach end of the spectrum, and the fruit is lean. Tightly coiled acidity is gently embossed into the fruit; it is neatly packaged and very tight. The wine builds as it opens, and while the first sip was difficult to get a reading on, the ensuing interactions are juicier and more saliva-inducing. The restraint is attractive, and the back-palate weighting of flavor similarly makes for charming drinking. 12.6% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.
Punteggi della critica
Punteggio medio
Jancis Robinson MW
Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
Altre recensioni e punteggi
This leased 1.8-ha vineyard, all clone 15, was planted 1994. There are another two years to run on the current lease but the Brajkoviches are hoping to renew it and are heartened by the fact that, although Kumeu is prime redevelopment area, there has been no change in planning permissions for the moment. Malan Brajkovich has been completely in charge of viticulture there since 2017 and reckons the vineyard has improved as a result. Paul B: ‘the fruit looked the best ever before the deluge of 27 January. We were able to go in and hand-pick the clean stuff by hand.’ Whole-bunch pressed. Spontaneous fermentation. 100% barrel-fermented in used French oak. 100% malo and 11 months’ maturation in barrel. According to Paul B, the 2008, opened fairly recently in a search for a wine to add to their Crémant at disgorgement stage, was looking surprisingly good. Sturdy, dry, burgundian nose. Very textural start with very slight oiliness towards the end. Already very broachable with a tiny hint of lemon cough sweets on the finish. Will surely develop more creaminess and less of a grainy texture. Still some tannins evident. (JR)
The 2023 Chardonnay Coddington provides its typical rounder shape and comforting suppleness despite being clearly lighter in concentration and richness than in recent years. At just 12.6% alcohol, it's bright and fresh, with a zestiness pervading its core. It's balanced (when isn't a Kumeu River?), but it's done in a lighter, zipper, citrus-driven style with no new oak. The lees contact is all important here in imbuing it with mid-palate texture.