2023 Rays Road Chardonnay
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The Ray's Road vineyard is in Hawke's Bay, southeast of Auckland, on a north-facing slope at 180 meters above sea level. It is planted on limestone and dry-grown. The 2023 Rays Road Chardonnay is reductive, nutty and saline, with green inflections that highlight the solids in the wine. This is the most complex of the wines in this release, with curry leaf and saffron, sugar snap peas, green apple and caper brine in profusion, yet I feel it is also the most angular and the most obvious. Those seeking intensity of flavor will be attracted to this cuvée the most, for its intensity and depth, however it lacks the quiet focus of the other wines. 12.8% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.
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Punteggio medio
Jancis Robinson MW
Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
Altre recensioni e punteggi
Hand-harvested in this Raukawa vineyard acquired in late 2017 from Trinity Hill as a joint project with Pascal Jolivet of the Loire. Whole-bunch pressed Spontaneous fermentation and 100% barrel-fermentation in used French oak. 100% malo and 11 months’ maturation in barrel. The first Kumeu River vintage was 2018 but they reckon this is the best so far. Since acquiring the vineyard in 2018 they have been systematically replacing the Sauvignon Blanc vines, whose fruit is sold off, with Chardonnay. (Trinity Hill’s clone 95 Chardonnay planted in early 2005 is reckoned a bit too austere for the Rays Road bottling so goes into the Village bottling.) They may eventually release single-block Chardonnays. Quite intense, bright fruit. Excellently aromatic. Almost pungent with a hint of putty. Lots of punchy fruit. Very complete with an appetising dry finish. (JR)
It's amazing that a 2023 Chardonnay Rays Road was even made, considering Cyclone Gabrielle left many homes and vineyards underwater or even washed them away. At 180m, the vineyard at Rays Road escaped flooding but not the rain. It's a tight, spritely wine with a freshly squeezed lemon on papaya and nectarine flavor. The crisp yet ripe fruit is followed up with bracing acidity that pierces its core and pushes it through. No new oak here, leaving the fruit to shine. Moderate length.