1940 Rivesaltes

Even better than the 1950—and remarkably so for being produced during WWII—the 1940 Rivesaltes is a touch paler in hue, but it also boasts ruby flecks to its amber coloration. Cleaner on the nose, this is vibrant and alive, leaner and more citrusy, but still honeyed and moderately sweet, with notes of maple syrup, black walnuts and candied citrus. It's medium to full-bodied but seems fresh and lively. In fact, it's probably in better shape than many of the octogenarians this will be used to fete.