2008 Chambolle Musigny Les Veroilles

Ripe cassis and dark cherry are laced with scents of iris and clean, fresh, pasture-fed red meat in the enticing nose of Barthod’s 2008 Chambolle-Musigny Les Veroilles, which exhibits sap, energy, and sheer refreshment, yet at the same time a sense of viscosity uncommon in the present collection, or for that matter in this vintage. Intriguingly carnal; bittersweetly herbal and floral; piquantly fruit pit; invigoratingly saline; as well as dustily stony notes combine to lend complexity to a long, lip-smacking, positively gripping finish. This should be downright exciting to observe over the next dozen or more years. It’s exuberant and complex, yet not out to flatter the taster – or at least, not at this youthful stage. Ghislaine Barthod expressed elation at a 2008 collection that she though evoked the “tres Chambolle” ideals of finesse, animation, and brightness. With the exception of her generic and village lots that were still in barrel then, I tasted all of these wines assembled from tank in February. (They were destined for April or May bottling). Barthod is decidedly less overjoyed by recent yields. “The last three vintages have brought really small quantities: in 2006 we had the hail; 2007 required a severe trie; and in 2008 – besides a bit more hail (principally on non-cru sites) – we had berries with very little pulp or juice,” she says, adding that “in 2008 you had to be really vigilant and spray (against fungal pests) at just the right moment. One day too late and you were in trouble. We ended up with high acidity but balance, good natural alcohol, and enough richness.” (Not only is Barthod one of Burgundy’s most consistent performers, she’s one grower you can count on to be spot-on – even if that means ruthlessly honest – in assessing her own performance. Unfortunately, shortage of time precluded my tasting her 2007s.) Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990

(two of seven barrels new) Bright, deep red. Pure, restrained nose hints at black cherry and licorice and conveys a medicinal reserve. Then fatter and sweeter in the middle than the nose would suggest but nonetheless quite backward, even austere. A pungent mineral character adds to the impression of power. This is tough going today and will need eight to ten years of aging.

Lively and sprightly on the nose, though pretty tough on the palate. Awkward in terms of quite pronounced acidity. (JR)