2020 Chardonnay Gloria

There’s a whole world of orange in the nose of this great chardonnay, ranging from the blossom to candied fruit, plus a whiff of vanilla. Then comes the astonishingly balanced act on the wide-screen palate, where the enormous concentration feels almost weightless, because everything fits so beautifully together. The finale is at once super-chalky and super-silky. Drink or hold.