2008 Quinta do Ribeirinho Pe Franco

The 2008 QUINTA DO RIBEIRINHO “BAGA PE FRANCO is one of Pato’s prestige labels, a small production Baga from ungrafted vines on sandy soil. This lets the Baga all hang out. Cold macerated (something new with this vintage, Pato said to me), this is bright, with a sour cherry nuance on the finish, intense, yet still seeming to be rather beautifully balanced—at least in the long run. The intense, steely finish bodes well for this wine, as does its crispness and serious backbone. It will be a few years yet before it is fully expressive. Approach it if you will, but you’ll be wasting it if you pop it now. It has many tales to tell that are yet untold. The “Pe Franco,” by the way, or franc pied in French, means French foot, that is, original, ungrafted vines without American vine rootstock. Drink 2016-2030. These were poured as part of verticals and other “studies” at Pato’s winery, which is probably Portugal’s best known Baga producer. Everything here was retasted in the USA, but for the two library wines (the 1990 Vinhas Velhas and the 2001 Vinhas Velhas). For Pato, it is Baga and more Baga—sparklers may be blanc de noir, although a little pink. They are (except the Duet) all Baga. The sweet Abafados are Baga, too. (The white wines, however, are not, but even the Fernao Pires has 6% Baga skins.) Baga, with somewhat rustic tendencies, is not always the easiest grape from Portugal to appreciate as it can be quite difficult to master both as a winemaker and consumer, with high acidity and astringency being par for the course. A bit contrary to modern trends, it is also likelier to be earthy than sweet. But if pure Baga can be civilized, if it has a high expression and makes its case, this is one of the short list places where you most likely will learn to appreciate it. Pato has a longstanding reputation as the man who has made Bairrada (although he often uses regional designations), but it still seems to me, even given my past incarnations as a Baga agnostic, that he has upped his game of late and proven his points. I’ve never been happier with his wines than with this collection. These recent releases are consistent and increasingly superb—and with minor exceptions there are often terrific values here, like the Vinhas Velhas Branco and the sparklers, not to mention the delicious Abafados. Both reds and whites were very fine and may yet have further room for improvement as they develop in the cellar. Note: the sparklers come with no real appellation designation, but Pato says that they aren’t quite Vinho de Mesa because they have a grape and vintage designation. Also, apart from the library wines here, some of these are not imported, in particular, the Vinha Formal 2011, Vinha Barrosa 2009 and 2010 and the Fernao Pires, which is all rather regrettable, but still leaves a lot of fine wines and excellent values Importer: Wine in Motion, Union, N.J.; tel: 908-688-3837