2009 Mendel Unus

2009 was hot and dry. Wines were very concentrated, ripe and rich. We have some very good examples of rich Malbec. (Very 'American'.)  Ungrafted Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon planted in 1928 in Luján de Cujo. 16 months in new French oak. This is the first vintage to include Petit Verdot – 5%. Incredibly dark crimson, like essence of red wine. Lots of dark fruit, small berries and a touch of violets, more fragrant than the 2008. Tannins are dense but the wine is still fluid and fresh. On the palate there's oak spice but very little sweetness. Just dark, coaly intensity and dry, refined texture even though it needs more time. (JH)

(70% malbec and 30% cabernet sauvignon): Medium ruby-red. Cherry, mocha and cocoa powder on the nose, lifted by spices. Supple, pliant and sweet, with harmonious acidity giving shape and lift to the black raspberry, currant and spice flavors. Generous and satisfying wine, with rather easygoing dusty tannins that will not get in the way of enjoying this wine in its youth. But has the balance to repay aging.

The 2009 Unus is a blend of 70% Malbec and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from 82-year-old vines and aged for 16 months in 100% new French oak. It displays a brooding nose with notions of spice box, pain grille, earthy minerals, violets, and assorted black fruits. Dense, plush, and seductive, this tasty effort will evolve for several years, but resisting its siren song will be challenging. It offers a drinking window extending from 2014 to 2024. Mendel is a partnership of renowned winemaker Roberto de la Mota and Annabelle Sielecki whose family owns the vineyards. As a postscript, while visiting the winery in October 2011, I was also shown the 2006, 2007, and 2008 vintages of Finca Remota, which have been reviewed before in these pages. They are performing as well or better than I previously reported. Importer: Vine Connections, Sausalito, CA; tel. (415) 332-8466