1998 TBA #7 Chardonnay/Welschriesling Nouvelle Vague

Offered again for the moment, the medium to dark-colored 1998 Trockenbeerenauslese No. 7 Chardonnay Welschriesling Nouvelle Vague is incredibly pure and aromatic on the nose that combines still youthful and juicy fruit aromas (grapefruit, vineyard peaches, apricots, oranges) with delicate secondary (toast, tea, pencil tip) and tertiary notes reminiscent of nougat, brioche, tobacco and caramel. On the palate, this is a playful and finessed, almost filigreed, remarkably (and persistently) saline and vivacious Ccvée that blends Chardonnay and Welschriesling in equal parts but didn't fit into the Grande Cuvée. 10% stated alcohol. Natural cork.

The yellow/orange-colored 1998 Chardonnay / Welschriesling Trockenbeerenauslese Nouvelle Vague Number 7 exhibits aromas reminiscent of poached pears, flowers, and candied berries. It is medium to full-bodied, ample, velvety-textured, and crammed with fresh pears, apples, oranges, white flowers, and jammy apricots. It is rich, broad, lively, has exceptional acidity, and an impressively long finish. Projected maturity: now-2025+. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700.

(for 375 ml.) Apple and quince jelly is subtly touched by caramel, vanilla and musk. With only 10% alcohol and a lovely, mouthwatering sense of citricity, this gives the impression of having more green-gold fruit mingling with the botrytized raisins. It is no less creamy, doughy-yeasty and fat than the other most imposing wines of the collection, yet it has more delicacy of flavor and a more refreshing cast. 2 stars.