1982 Barca Velha

70% Tinta Roriz, 10% Touriga Francesa (now Touriga Franca), 10% Tinta Barroca, 5% Touriga Nacional, 5% others. 12–18 months in new 225-litre Portuguese oak barrels. TA 5.4 g/l, pH 3.56. According to Sogrape's tasting booklet, '1982 saw a very dry winter with almost no rainfall and higher than average temperatures. Settled spring conditions allowed for a reasonable fruit set, suggesting an anticipated average yield. The summer was very hot and dry, which significantly accelerated the vine cycle. The harvest began in August in the Douro Superior and in early September in the Cima Corgo. For this reason, the grapes reached a high level of ripeness and concentration.' No rain during harvest.  Deep browning garnet. Sweetly perfumed with decadent, senescent fruits, even smells a little of sweet red fruits even if not in a primary way, some leather and undergrowth and touch of lavender, really perfumed in its maturity, so open. Savoury but not meaty. Extreme tertiary flavours, a touch of liquorice and pepper, and super-silky-smooth texture. So much fruit at the core even if there is no actual fruit flavour. Extremely fragrant, opening more and more in the glass, including some cigar-box and mocha impressions. More burgundian than bordelais. (JH)